In our previous article, we explored the rich tapestry of Yunnan’s Huayao Yi and Dai communities. Continuing our Excursion Trip, this time we journeyed to Baisha Village, home to Naxi culture nestled at the foot of the majestic Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, followed by an enchanting exploration of Dali, renowned for its Bai heritage.
Naxi People – Baisha Village
During our visit, we visited Baisha Village in Yulong Naxi Autonomous County to explore the Naxi culture. This village represents a typical patriarchal society of Naxi people. The residents adhere to the traditional Dongba religion and are influenced by both Nyingma Sect of Tibetan Buddhism and Chinese Taoism. The name “Naxi” carries profound significance, as “na” signifies “black” and “xi” denotes “people” in the unique Dongba language spoken exclusively in this region. Within the Naxi community, two prominent groups, the Lijiang Naxi and the Yongning Mosuo, shape the cultural landscape.
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain
The Naxi people gained prominence through the experiences of the American explorer Joseph Francis Charles Rock in Yunnan. Rock settled in Lijiang between 1922 and 1949, during which time he collected over 80,000 plant samples, pioneered field photography, and authored numerous reports for National Geographic. Yet, his legacy extends beyond exploration; Rock compiled the first Dongba language dictionary, becoming a custodian of Naxi culture. TBC students and teachers visited Rock’s former residence in Baisha Village to gain deeper insight into his contributions to Naxi culture.
To further explore Naxi culture, the students visited Mr. He Xipeng, the 34th generation heir of Dongba culture. His great-grandfather was an esteemed Dongba master who imparted Dongba knowledge to Rock. Dongba culture embodies the distinctive heritage of the Naxi people, comprising the Dongba script, language, classical literature, paintings, music, and rituals. Renowned as “the only hieroglyphic script still in use in the world,” the Dongba script has played an important role in deciphering ancient oracle bone inscriptions.
Mr. He Xipeng, the 34th generation heir of Dongba culture (third from the right)
The Dongba script originates from the Naxi religious classic “Dongba Jing,” primarily used to assist Dongba shamans in accurately reciting or narrating texts, rather than for daily communication. “Dongba” means “wise man,” hence, the Dongba script is exclusively hereditary to males. This hieroglyphic writing system originated at the end of the 7th century, blending the primitive beliefs of the Naxi people with the cultural elements of the Bon religion of Tibet to form a comprehensive system that has undergone long-term development and systematic inheritance. Due to its religious conservatism, the development of the Dongba script has been relatively slow, retaining many of its original features.
The Dongba script in teacher He Xipeng’s home
Interacting with Mr. He Xipeng, the students displayed great interest in the Dongba script and actively asked questions. During discussions on expressing modern items in the Dongba language, the students were particularly curious about how to depict “computer.” Mr. He Xipeng then began to “draw” on the blackboard, ingeniously breaking down “computer” into “hands pressing observable objects.” Although this expression is intricate, it showcases the unique charm and creativity of the Dongba language.
Dongba script in the blackboard
Despite its cultural richness, the Naxi heritage faces an uncertain future. Currently, the Naxi population is around 400,000, with only a few hundred Dongba script masters. To safeguard this irreplaceable legacy, concerted efforts are underway to raise awareness and preserve the Dongba language. Across Lijiang, storefronts and public signage feature Dongba script, serving as poignant reminders of a vanishing cultural heritage.
The ubiquitous Dongba script in Lijiang
Bai People – Dali
At the end of the Excursion Trip, the students ventured into the picturesque Dali and experienced the rich heritage of the local Bai ethnic culture. The traditional Bai costumes, particularly the women’s headdresses, vividly portrayed Dali’s enchanting landscape of “wind, flower, snow, and moon”: Tassels symbolized the wind in Xiaguan, brightly colored flower ornaments represented the flowers in Shangguan, the pure white top of the hat echoed the snow on Cang Mountain, and the curves of the hat mimicked the moon above Erhai Lake.
In Dali Town, students enjoyed the Dongjing historical performance of Bai ethnic culture, a form of music that combines elements of court and ritual. Its history can be traced back to the period of the Nanzhao Dynasty (8th to 9th centuries), reaching its peak during the Ming and Qing dynasties. With the pleasant melodies produced by Dahu, Erhu, Ruan, and other traditional instruments, the students deeply immersed themselves in the charm of Bai traditional music.
The Dongjing historical performance of Bai ethnic culture
While watching the performance, the students experienced the Three-Course Tea Ceremony, a traditional ritual practiced by the Bai people to express friendship and respect. The first cup of tea is mildly bitter, followed by a second cup sweetened with candies and walnut slices, and finally, the third cup is mixed with honey and Chinese herbs, leaving a fresh and rich aftertaste. This process, known as “first bitter, second sweet, and third savory,” symbolizes the intertwining of bitterness and sweetness in life, reflecting the profound philosophy of Bai ethnic culture.
Experience the Three-Course Tea Ceremony
On the last stop of the trip, the students experienced the tie-dyeing technique of the Bai people in Xizhou Town. This unique and traditional skill, which utilizes the roots of the radix isatidis as the dye, preserves the most primitive and handmade production process. Under the guidance of Bai elders, the students learned sewing and dyeing techniques, creating tie-dye artwork with distinct Bai ethnic characteristics. This was not only a learning experience of traditional craftsmanship but also a journey of deep understanding and immersion into Bai ethnic culture.
Learn the tie-dyeing technique of the Bai people
In just two weeks, TBC students dug deep into Yunnan to immerse themselves in the rich and vibrant cultures of ethnic minorities. From the fantastic dragon dance of the Huayao Yi to the serene traditional meditation of the Dai, and from the profound Dongba culture of the Naxi to the intricate tie-dye technique of the Bai, students embraced the opportunity to accept and understand ethnic groups from diverse backgrounds with open minds. This journey served as not only an in-depth exploration of China’s minority cultures but also a voyage of self-discovery, inspiring each student to reflect on and embrace cultural diversity.
Experience the tie-dyeing technique of the Bai people
By Fiona Fu, TBC Media and Communications Intern
The past few weekends have been some of the most exciting of the entire semester, full of trips to the zoo, mountain hikes, ancient parks, and more! Our first trip out of many was a visit to the Beijing Zoo. I had mentioned earlier in the semester that I wanted to see some pandas, since I was in China after all, and our TBC friend Andy made it happen.
Spending a whole semester in Beijing, I knew I had to make the trip down south and check out Shanghai, and the city certainly lived up to the expectations. Everyone describes Shanghai as this super futuristic metropolis, and after spending a weekend there I understand why it has this reputation.